City's Yankee-fied Renditions of Shrimp and Grits

At Ducks, the head-on shrimp are terrifically fresh—crucial with this preparation, Ted points out, as the juices inside the head can go bad especially quickly. They’re served alongside roughly ground, rich grits, tomatoes, and spicy andouille sausage in a cast-iron dish with a Chinese soup spoon, inviting ramen comparisons. The only complaint: “The elements are all on point,” Ted says, “but it feels separate—like a warm mise en place.” $14; 351 E. 12th St., nr. First Ave.; 212-432-3825. Brunch only. 3/5 -

At the Elberta, the rendition here is nothing if not unique; the buttery, winey sauce sits over a heap of cheesy, puddinglike grits. Mixed in are a mélange of spices, bacon, onions, and bell peppers (Elberta was the only restaurant to use this last ingredient in its grits, but bell peppers can be found in many traditional Charleston recipes). The shrimp are “Über-fresh,” says Ted. “They’re not messing around.” He adds: “These would be my hangover grits of choice.” $14; 335 Flatbush Ave., nr. Carlton Ave., Park Slope; 718-638-1936. Brunch only.  4/5  

Brooklyn Southern- The sauce is the star—vinegary and like a dark roux, with cooked onion, Worcestershire and hot sauces, celery, and butter. Matt praises the intense flavors and tartness, but adds that the “dish would have been improved immeasurably if the quality of both the shrimp and the grits were higher.” The commercially produced grits fell short of stone-ground varieties in terms of texture, and Matt thought a meatier shrimp would have made more sense with the Pickapeppa-esque sauce. $13; 126 Union St., nr. Columbia St., Columbia Street Waterfront District; 718-855-5700. 3/5  (more here)